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Fashion criticism : an anthology / edited by Francesca Granata.

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London, UK ; New York, NY : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021.

Fashion writing -- History.

9781350058804 (paperback)

1350058807 (paperback)

vii, 231 pages ; 25 cm

Introduction -- Part I Late nineteenth century-1960s -- Introduction to part I -- Mr. Oscar Wilde on woman's dress / Oscar Wilde -- Literary and other notes (excerpt) / Oscar Wilde -- Philosophic fashions: who fell asleep on the King's Highway? / Dame Rogue (Louise Norton) -- Philosophic fashions: the importance of being dressed / Dame Rogue (Louise Norton) -- Feminine fashions / Lois Long -- Feminine fashions / Lois Long -- Copying a fancy name / Elizabeth Hawes -- News...news...news... / Elizabeth Hawes -- Fashions from Paris: a suit story at Balenciaga / Eugenia Sheppard -- A mini for men? / Eugenia Sheppard -- A campaign issue: clothes? / Eleni Epstein -- Candidates in a tie on fashion's slate / Eleni Epstein -- Part II -- 1970s-1990s -- The wound in the face / Angela Carter -- Feminine fashions: the fall collections II / Kennedy Fraser -- Looking with Avedon / Susan Sontag -- What happened to the afro? / Bebe Moore Campbell -- Ralph Lauren's achievement / Holly Brubach -- In fashion: modernism outmoded / Holly Brubach -- Haute coiffure de gel / Elizabeth Wilson -- Hippie heaven / Eve Babitz -- Calvinism unclothes / Valerie Steel -- Coming apart / Amy Spindler -- The once and future suit / Anne Hollander -- Sexualities / Anne Hollander -- The Eastern bloc / Lynn Yaeger -- Avant guardians / Lynn Yaeger -- The only one / Hilton Als -- Buying the fantasy / Hilton Als -- Fashion's military fascination: unsettling, romantic esthetic / Suzy Menkes -- Part III Twenty-first century -- Introduction to part III -- Future, take note: Raf Simons was here / Cathy Horyn -- Hussein Chalaya: nostalgia for the future / Caroline Evans -- The misfit / Judith Thurman -- Dressed to thrill: Alexander McQueen at the Met / Judith Thurman -- Why I hate Abercrombie & Fitch (excerpt) / Dwight A. McBride -- The mystery man: Margiela, be mine / Sarah Mower -- All hail the leader of the fashionable world / Robin Givhan -- The revolution will be branded vetements / Anja Aronowsky Cronberg -- Will I get a ticket? A conversation about life after Vogue with Lucinda Chambers / Anja Aronowsky Cronberg -- Trump vs. the disappearing tie / Vanessa Friedman -- Suket Dhir, men's wear designer, from Delhi to the world / Guy Trebay -- Melania Trump and the chilling artifice of fashion / Rhonda Garelick -- Is wokeness in fashion just another illusion? / Connie Wang.

"This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture. Exploring the history of fashion criticism, this essential work takes us from the so-called 'women's section' of 19th century newspapers to the work of Bill Cunningham in The New York Times, and from early Vogue features to the multi-media platform work of SHOWstudio. Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual, digital world. Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde's editorial's in Women's World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today's proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism"--

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